Friday, May 15, 2009

letter 11 New York I

Harrington Travels East 2009
Letter 11: New York I
Sometimes when Olivia was a small girl traveling with her parents they would take a wrong turn or get “lost.” Instead of telling her they were lost they would say, “We are having an adventure.” Over the years of traveling with them she had lots of adventures. When we traveled with our girls and would get “lost”, Fred would say he was “taking a shortcut!” The girls soon learned we would be a little longer in the car, while on these shortcuts.

While traveling we are asked many times, “How did you get way up here?” Our answers are “we took a wrong turn,” “we have a bad map”, but we are really having a “Grand Adventure via Shortcuts!”

We navigate the old fashion way, with maps and planning. Some of the maps are good and others are hard to read. Sometimes we miss the road signs, or go east instead of west. Therefore, yes we have to turn around some. We have learned to accept this as a way of life and just part of traveling. Most of the time we see something interesting on these shortcuts. We just pray for a turn around place big enough to turn the trailer. Thankfully we don’t always have the trailer behind us.

Fred says, not very often. Olivia does a remarkable job as our navigator. I’ve heard many complain about the roads in New Jersey. So could we, but we went everywhere we wanted.

Tuesday, May 12 we moved from NJ into New York. We had decided to find a place to have the car and trailer washed professionally since we had been on the coast for so long with salt and sand getting into all the seams and underpinning. We found the place in Montgomery at a truck stop. Now at home these big truck stops are very visible on our freeways, well, when we exited at the appropriate exit, we didn’t see one. We went the wrong way so here was a turn around and asking directions. Going south from the interstate and turning at the second signal we drove around a big curve and completely hidden was this huge truck stop and we were in the mist of about 100 big boys. Talk about being intimidated! They were moving those big trailers, backing and parking in tight places, without blinking an eye.

We finally found our way to the car wash and lined up. Should have taken a picture, but we were too busy getting ready. We pulled into the big bay, they closed the bay doors and three men started spraying. The spray was so hard it dislodged the extended side mirrors. Fred opened the slide-out and they sprayed the top of the awning cover and under it. Lots of pine pollen came out as yellow water.
We remembered all the hard work washing the trailer was the two times we did it last year and think it was worth every penny it cost to have it done. They found places we could have never reached.

From there we found the desired state park on the east side of the Hudson River. When Olivia went to the headquarters to arrange for a spot, they were scratching their heads. Well, if you park in #29 maybe, then another was suggested, then they had a brainstorm and told us to follow them up the hill and into a closed part of the park to a group parking where we could choose our spot. Again we were all alone in the forest.

We thought dogwoods bloomed for only a short time. They have been with us every day for over two months. The very first day we saw them in East Texas. We’ve seen them every day since! They seem to bloom just as we arrive in an area. Its been a wonderful sight. We haven’t tired of them.

Wednesday, May 13 not all of our adventures are getting lost. This day we struck out for West Point Military Academy. We did take one wrong turn and saw a castle on the hill and found the subway train by the river trying to find the Bear Mountain Bridge. On the way we noticed a roadside marker indicating the sight of the “first chain.” We wondered what that was about. Do you know? More later.
West Point is a very impressive place. After a tour of the visitor’s center, we purchased tickets for their tour bus to show us around the campus. From the porch of the non-denominational Cadet Chapel, built of granite quarried at West Point, we saw dogwoods and bridal wreath on the hillside by the chapel and below the dormitories joined in the middle by the mess hall. Inside the chapel we were in awe with the beautiful stain glass windows all around and replicas of the America flags carried into the various battles of the USA. This chapel also owns the largest organ in the world. It contains 23,500 pipes. We thought of our church's new organ and those that worked so hard to obtain it. The Farrar's and Robert came to our minds. Though “chapel” is no longer mandatory, we are told it is heavily used.

The tour took us in front of the parade grounds with the dorms and chapel in the center background. From there we visited the trophy point represented by various cannons captured in battle. The view of the Hudson from this point was outstanding. Fred wondered how students concentrated on coursework with all the beauty. It must be hard. Back at the visitor’s center we entered the museum where we saw galleries of the American Wars, History of the US Army, History of Warfare and West Point. We wished for Rachel since she is our history buff. One of the items that caught Olivia’s eye was the panorama of various battles. One ancient one showed the defenders behind a stone wall, while the capturers built towers and shelters from the defending men. Uniforms, statues and artifacts up to the present day Cadet uniform were included in the museum.

Our son in-law Bob Heck was raised in northern New Jersey and he told us of growing up in Ringwood. We were not far so we took off to explore his part of the world. We stopped at
Ringwood State Park to confer with Bob’s emails of details of the area. We have been enjoying what we think might be mountain laurel and found some to photograph here.

Robert Erskine managed three ironmaking plantations from his home/headquarters in Ringwood. He also became General Washington’s mapmaker. His colonial house saw Washington at least five visits as this was half way between West Point and Morristown. Ringwood iron was used in parts of the Great Hudson River chain as well as camp stoves, tools and other hardware. Washington was also in Ringwood the day the Revolutionary War ended.

We found the story of the Great Hudson River Chain interesting as told to us at West Point and again here at Ringwood. Because the emerging USA didn’t have much of a navy, our army actually strung this 800 link chain, supported by forty huge log rafts, across the Hudson near West Point to prevent the British ships from coming up the Hudson and ultimately controlling the river. This is the third chain. The first two failed to do the job. Failure meant the New England states (originators of the revolution) would have been cut off from the rest of the country. The third chain did its job, the Brits didn’t even try to defeat the chain.
It was exciting to see replica links from this chain here at the house. The house wasn't open so we peaked into the windows of the sun room. Other ironworks were found around the house and garden. The well had elaborate pulley and buckets supports. Again pink Dogwoods lined the walkway.

Bob lived in this home and his dad had a pharmacy. Cupshaw Lake is in the middle of Ringwood and we drove around the lake seeing a beautiful little street with homes nestled in the tall trees, with the lake on the left and the forest on the right. Bob says he, “rowed across lake Erskine, about a mile, when he was 5 years old.”

Thursday, May 14 we crossed the Hudson on Bear Mountain Bridge as we moved to Croton Point park, a Westchester County service, on a peninsula into the Hudson River. We made a run to Wal-mart to stock up.
This park includes a completed and landscaped landfill then a beach and picnic grounds before the RV camping ground. On out the point are cabins right on the river. The history includes a brick yard, school and other buildings. We wondered how this land we considered prime real estate had become a land fill. We were told back in the early 1900’s this had not been considered prime as the ships came in to this area and large factories were being planned.

Friday, May 15 Fred descends from the early (1640) settlers of Greenwich, Connecticut, so our mission for the day was to find where they had been. We already had a lot of research on them. The Hustead family first arrived in Boston in 1634 before moving, a few years later, to the Greenwich area of Connecticut. Greenwich was unsettled at the time. We arrived in Old Greenwich and found the Perrot Library and a lovely research librarian. She helped us find locations of where Robert and Angell Heusted our spelling Hustead, had lived. We visited the Congregational church founded in 1665, which also had descendants of Hustead’s in the cemetery. We then drove to Angell’s land. He had several places. Husteads were puritan farmers. Its hard to see this exclusive area today and image cow pens and rows of crops.

One parcel was on the water south of Old Greenwich. The neighbor hood was very nice with narrow streets. The next one was closer to the end of the “neck” and was a private neighborhood, but we entered anyway. The fences in the street were for designated parking for homeowners only. The third place we found was where the founders had landed on Elizabeth’s neck. Now it is the Old Greenwich Yacht Club on the right of the picture and ONLY members are allowed in!

Fred’s branch (third generation) left this area around 1700 for Duchess County New York, but other Husteads remained. Along with the Ferris’s, Meads, Lockwoods and others, they left a large fingerprint on the area. As New York City grew, this area became popular as a retreat for those with money. Later, in the 1800’s, commuter rail service made it possible to work in the city and live here. That’s when the cow barns had to go. Urban sprawl had come to Greenwich.

We found the oldest cemetery in Greenwich, Tomac Burying Ground. The plaque explains about the unmarked stones and we enjoyed seeing it had been placed in honor of Robert and Angell Hustead. We wondered who placed this marker. Were they Hustead decendants? We wandered around this small cemetery with tall markers then saw the old stones. Obviously they did not have stone cutters to place names on the markers. Look hard in the shadows in the grass for the stones. Take your choice for which stone was Robert’s and Angell’s and their families. One stone had a new marker on the ground for Nathanial Husted, died April 9, 1758 at age 60. There was no direct relationship and we wondered how someone picked out this rock as his. We drove back through the downtown Old Greenwich to Riverside where Robert Hustead (Fred’s USA patriarch) owned land. After looking in the current phone book we were surprised to see a Robert Hustead living in Riverside so we drove by his home.

We did see the land without houses in a school yard in Riverside. If you want to google from space to find these locations start with Old Greenwich, CT then go south to the point. Riverside is a little northwest of OG. We were surprised to see from satalite that the point where the yacht club is only a big park. Why the privacy??? North of the point to the right are the huge homes and even a little farther to the NE is the cemetery. Don’t cross any water or the interstate in your trip to our ancestors former property.

On our way back to the trailer we drove all the way to the Hudson before heading North to Croton Point. We noticed a Washington Irving school, then another Irving building, then all of a sudden we were being welcomed to Historic Sleepy Hollow. Bells and lightbulbs suddenly went off. Then we passed the statue of the headless horseman and the Old Dutch Church and burying ground. The cemetery went on forever with large trees at the boundary. WOW what a wonderful surprise. We went back to the trailer and researched Washington Irving and the Legend of Sleepy Hollow. We also found Irving wrote "Rip Van Winkle." His career started when he wrote the History of NYC and put ad's in the NY Times by a hotel owner stating a Mr Knickerbocker had skipped out on his room rent and if he didn't show up and pay his bill the owner would publish the transcript of "History of NYC" Mr. Knickerbocker had left in the room. The interest was peaked and when the history came out it was a big success. In this history he nicknamed NYC "Gotham" which translates as Goat's Town! It also made fun of the local politicians. Hence Knickerbocker is a nickname for New Yorkers. Ever heard of the Knicks? Felicia is this what you believe?

Saturday, May 16 This was too much to comprehend so after searching the internet we went back to Sleepy Hollow to actually see these places. Our first stop was at the Old Dutch Church and burying ground where there just happened to be a group of volunteers selling souveniers and telling the stories of Washington Irving. Come to find out he was buried in this cemetery (white tombstone) and they had pictures of the original bridge.
On our way out of the cemetery a stone caught our eye and as it turned out it was a James Barnard and read,
Here Lies the Body of
James Barnard Who Departed
This Life the 2 of March 1768
The Boistorous Winds and Neptunes
Waves have Tose Me To and Fro
By God’s Decree Now Plainly See
I am Harbored Here Below.
Since Teenya is married to a Barnard we couldn’t resist taking this picture.

We did go on to attempt to see Washington Irving’s home “Sunnyside” but were unsuccessful.

We learned the most interesting news from the volunteers at the cemetery. Each Halloween, the church is open twice for a reading by a professional actor, in costume, of the Legend of Sleepy Hollow. Bear in mind the church has NO modern conviniences - no lights, no heat and no electricity. They do have a candle lit chandelier. It would be a hoot to be able to attend! Maybe on our way from New England's fall colors we could return to Sleepy Hollow. Its not on our schedule, so we will probably miss it. How about you? Will you come? Let us know and maybe we can meet you.

Again what a wonderful surprise to stumble into.

Back to Croton Point we brushed up on it’s history and found out this point has been a fortified Indian Village where they left behind the oldest oyster shell middens on the east coast. The point was important in the Revolutionary War. In 1849 with new steam-powered machinery a pressed brick called “Croton Fronts” was made. Brick was made until 1915 when the clay deposits ran out. Because of the quantity produced, the price of “Croton Fronts” were quoted for several decades in the financial section of the New York Times. A brick village for about 300 workers was built in Croton Point park and several are still standing.

Another man grew grapes and produced a Sweet Union Port, and others wines. The wine cellars still exist at Croton Point. During WWI it appeared the Point would become the site of enormous factories, Fortunately it finally became the property of Westchester County and was developed for public recreation in 1924.

We walked down to the little beach and found remnants of some of the
“Croton Fronts.” We wished for Pat Kollie as she would have picked up every fragment on the beach. From our trailer we can see glimpses of the Hudson River.

Sunday, May 17 we went back to West Point and attended church at the Cadet Protestant Chapel. We arrived early and to our surprise the Deer Park High School Chorale, of about 90 teens, from Texas was practicing. They were a big part of the service. Many parents were in the congregation and we visited with a few. This group makes this trip every two years. They had been in Manhattan several days, seen two or three musicals, visited China Town and now performing for the service in West Point. We were impressed. The service was very patriotic and the sermon was on “Finding Greatness in Service” and encouraging the cadets and others to always be of service to their men as their leaders and to their country. Husbands and wives to be of service to each other, and parents to be of service to their children. All of the hymns were patriotic, “God of Our Fathers,” “Lead on O King Eternal.” and “America the Beautiful.” The organist utilized the organ with great talent. While singing America the Beautiful, it reminded us of our trip and “pilgrims feet whose stem impassioned stress, a thoroughfare of freedom beat across the wilderness!” like the Husteads and all our other ancestors. The Doxology was sung, like in our church with the addition of “My Country ‘Tis of Thee.” Olivia couldn’t help the tears sliding down her cheeks.

After church we drove down the west bank of the Hudson to Congers. Olivia has always heard that like the Husteads, once you connect, you are all kin because there was only one USA patriarch...it is one big family. We found a historical marker at the train station stating
that Abraham and Mary Conger, large landowners had granted easement for the railroad track.

Back at Croton on the Hudson a library sale lured us for purchasing some more reading material. We have been reading a lot, especially Fred. Blaire, we bought four of the Anne of Green Gables books.

Every time we leave Croton park there is a flock of geese feeding on the lush grass of a baseball field. We wonder what happens when there is a game.

At the campground park a group was hosting a “ShadFest” and vendor booths. We were too late for the free taste and most of what was being cooked was hamburgers. For a few minutes we watched a puppet show about Henry Hudson coming up the river and using the navigation instruments.


We have really enjoyed being at this site and being in the middle of things without being in the "city."

Our next stop is Mystic, Connecticut all the way across Connecticut. Will we make it in one day??? The weather has turned a little cooler. Low tonight in the low 40s. High today in the middle 50s. Fred has been asking why he packed shorts, but that’s okay it will warm soon enough.

Please send comments to Olivia@bobheck.com or Fredharrington@yahoo.com we love hearing from you.
Remember if you want to read other letters, go to the dates on the right of the screen.