Letter 25: Nova Scotia III
Saturday, August 8 we swung around the southern tip of Nova Scotia and started back up the Northern Shore following St Mary’s Bay and Hwy 3 and the Evangeline Trail. We drove through one little town after another, all overlooking the bay. One town was Comeauville and we thought about Leslie. Are your folks from here? We stopped at Church Point and a large park. This area is celebrating an Acadian Festival all week. We hoped to participate in some of the activities.
As we drove through all these little towns there were lots of garage/yard sales and Olivia sure did want to stop, so after we unhooked we retraced our steps down to Smuggler’s Cove Provincial Park stopping at several sales on the way. No treasures were found.
At Smuggler’s Cove we walked down about 100 steps to the cove and looked across it to the cave.
Too bad the tide was in or we could have walked across the beach and into the ocean-carved cave.Later we did go back at low tide, but we didn't want to risk the slick rocks.
The signs said there was writing on the walls of the cave from Rum Runners back during the USA prohibition. This was a favorite location to hide contraband. The shore line
at this point was quite a contrast to what we have been seeing. This was about 100’ drop to the rolling sea and we have not been seeing rock cliffs on the coast.
We are camped in Belle Baie trailer park that allows overnighters. It is right on the shore and some sites are at the edge of the water. Unfortunately we only rated an inland spot with no trees, but there was a nice breeze and the temperature low enough we had to close the windows.
The Eglise Sainte-Marie Church dominates this area and is the largest wooden church in North America and has been featured in Ripley’s Believe it or Not. The steeple looked like a fairy tale castle turret. Next to the church is the only French university in Nova Scotia and is home to the centre Acadian archives, a repository for historical and genealogical information pertaining to Acadians.
Sunday, August 9 we joined the Acadian Festival going on in this area by attending the
Pique-Nique at Saulnierville. People came from all the parishes around to help this church raise money to maintain the church. They hold this picnic every year at this time. We feasted on Rappier pie and
fried scallops with French fries. Their baked goods table consisted of a lot of desserts cut into squares and sold for 25 & 50 cents. They provided a little square plate that held 4 squares and made it easy to chose a selection. We filled two plates and bought a blueberry tart. They had games outside, bingo upstairs and garage sale tables. We came away stuffed! We also enjoyed visiting with the natives. Most were speaking French, but readily switched to English for us. There was a nice crowd, both
inside and
out—over 300.
Back at the campground we met a couple from Texas! Wow! Actually she is from here (he is from Illinois) but moved to Horseshoe Bay three years ago after retirement. Now they winter in Texas and summer here at this RV park. She is native of here and has 16 siblings. We had a nice visit with them. We realized we have only met two people from Texas on this trip. Guess everyone is happy in the heat.
While we were napping
three rigs moved in next to us. Quite a contrast from little to big.
The evening proved to be a different event for us. A boat parade. We watched it leave from Metaghan Harbor after the priest
blessed the fleet. The first one out
must have won the prize for the most decorated boat. Others followed. Bright Acadian flags adorned each boat.
An older gentleman who saw us at church during lunch informed us all about the boats, the fishing industry, families, and answered all of Fred’s questions. It was nice to have the personal guide for the evening. A lifetime fisherman, he was very knowledgeable. He explained about the
Lobster boats and how they were designed to let the traps slide off the back when placing them. And how markers were placed for nets using sonar to find them. These boats all have very sophisticated technology for finding fish and for safety.
He told about how the US and Canadian fishermen had fished together with no problems and how they were all friends even though they never met in person, all knew each other through the radio. Then the governments split up the fishing grounds (Georges Bank) between the USA and Canada.
The Seiners
carry a big wheel with their nets. Fred really enjoyed
seeing these boats and learning about their fishing. We even watched a
row boat leave with the rest of the boats. Surely they weren't going all five miles, but they were still headed that way when we left the dock. And yes, Leslie, there was even a
“Miss Comeau.” Not only is there a town, but a big seafood plant, Harley Davidson store, and many others with the Comeau (Como) name. We asked and yes, there is a family by that name.
Monday, August 10 my time flies! We have been gone 5 months. Imagine! We traveled up the Annapolis River valley on the North coast of Nova Scotia. The whole valley was full of beautiful farms. This valley was formed many years ago by glaciers and since has eroded and manicured by man into a beautiful valley.
As we neared the north end we turned straight north to the Blomidon Provencal Park. This is on a peninsula curling into the Bay of Fundy. It is said more water volume pass this spit due to the tides than anywhere. We have stayed most of our Canadian nights in RV parks. While they are nice they are glorified trailer parks. Some even have seasonal sites making them even more like trailer parks. We were glad to seek out this Provencal Park. It is so restful. True, we don’t have some of the luxuries of trailer parks, such as internet, but we can certainly live without it a few days.
This day, after parking, we sat outside reading, then cooked a wonderful steak supper. You may ask, don’t you get tired of cooking? Well, we have been enjoying the local cuisine more than enough. The seafood is wonderful up here. Can’t find that quality in Texas! Also, home cooked food tastes better out in the woods. From where we are parked we can see the Minas Basin (Bay) where the tidal bore comes in twice a day. We are actually members of a great vacation plan “club”, with some of the nicest people we've ever met. This kind of traveling is so nice, we sleep in our own bed, with our own pillows and we don’t have to unload suitcases every night. Cost of fuel, well yes it is expensive, in fact this day in Canada we paid $4.10 a gallon, but we don’t go very far in a day.
Nothing compares to being able to travel this great country and see, really see, the ocean waves those purple mountains majesties and amber waves of grain. There’s no limit when our house is on wheels.
After supper new friends (“club” members) we met at the registration booth from New Hampshire walked over. They brought a map and shared with up places to see in their state and invited us to park at their house when in New Hampshire. How nice!
Tuesday, August 11, we headed into town when Olivia said “turn here!” She had seen a sign for daylilies for sale. As mentioned earlier we had noticed about four colors of the day lilies in yards. Were we surprised when we saw this yard. Olivia took over
20 pictures of pretty lilies. 
We had no idea this many varieties existed.
The ones on sale were $6 a bucket and went on up to $300. 
The owner said we would have to get a special permit to take any back into the USA, so we just admired instead. He also said we could order online. They are available in New England and Florida.
The next step for the day was to replace the camera. Tom
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at Staples helped us with the camera and also tried to help us with the key on the laptop that isn’t working. We will have to wait until we return to the USA on that.
Fred has been interested in more information on the Acadian story so we went to
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Grand-Pre Historical Site. The Acadians in this area created
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“aboiteau” which is an Acadian icon because of its importance in an ingenious method of farming. No other group in North America reclaimed salt marshes. They hand-cared sluices
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to place under the dykes of the Grand-Pre marsh which transformed the vast inter-tidal zone into exceptionally fertile farmland. The clapper, or ale, allowed water to run off the dyked land but would not permit seawater to enter.
During the French and Indian wars the Acadians were neutrals, but were caught between the French in Canada and the British, they would not swear an unconditional oath of allegiance to the Crown. British forces began the “grand derangement.” Between 1755 and 1762 more than 10,000 Acadians, who had lived in Nova Scotia for generations, were forcibly removed from their land and dispersed throughout the American colonies, England and France. They were send on any ship with room, no matter the destination. Ore the years many people have been cruel to others, this was one of those times. Families were split, homes and farms were destroyed. Many were sent away as indentured servants. French in origin, the Acadians wouldn’t swear allegiance to France, so the French refused to help them. After the end of the war in 1763, many returned. They joined the small number of Acadians who had narrowly escaped exile and they forged a proud and vibrant community.
Of this large number deranged, less than 2,000 were sent to Louisiana, later to become one of the most famous ethnic group in the southern USA.
Here at this Historical Site is a reproduction of a church where the men were first held prisoners before being deranged. The statue is of
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Longfellow’s Evangeline, the mythical heroine of the Acadians. The gardens here were beautiful including huge
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willow trees and the
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patriotic flower garden represent this place that touches the heart of all Acadian people.
From there we went to
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Evangeline Beach where we could see the northern flank of the fertile Annapolis-Cornwallis valley that escaped erosion. This is the end of a 125 mile ridge of ancient lava flows, stretching from the tip of Nova Scotia to Cape Split. We are camped on that bluff. This beach is famous for the
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sandpiper’s winter home. They enjoy the beach at low tide, then fly over as the tide comes in. We watched the tide come in and saw over 200 fly by.
Back in the city of Wolfville we stopped at three of the many fruit stands. One even had
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u-pick flowers. We bought field tomatoes, peaches, corn, string beans, peas, and radishes. Several fruit stands advertised Hodge Podge and we discovered it was a variety of vegetables cooked together. The recipe was copied for us and we planned to try it.
Back at the
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campground we invited the Pushee’s from NH to join us for a “put together” supper.
Wednesday August 12, the sun was out and we explored this part of our world. We drove to several points of interest including the
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beach at low tide.
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There are amethyst in a bay just beyond this beach, but we didn’t know where they were at the time, so we missed that. Later we drove to Baxter’s Harbor where we saw a
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haunted water fall with boats
tethered to a rope but high and dry. Then on to Look Off viewpoint where we could see all the way back
across the fertile diked land to Grand-Pre. We went back into New Minas, had the oil changed then picked up some more fresh vegetables. The corn was so good the night before we bought six more ears. We tried the recipe for Hodge Podge and found it quite good. It is kind of like creamed vegetables: of course all fresh out of the garden. Little new potatoes, tender carrots, string beans, shelled English peas, and onions. Boil until done, drain, add a good size ball of butter and 1/2—3/4 cup blend or cream. Season with salt & Pepper. Heat until cream thickens. Delish! Let us know how you like it as we're sure you will try it.
Thursday August 13, As we left Cape Blomidon we followed the Glooscap Trail around the Minas Basin. We stopped for a break at the
Moose Brook Chapel and were amused and curious about the saying on the rock by the door and cemetery. Next we attempted to find the Burntcoat Head lighthouse where they have the greatest average tide at 47.5’. Their signage wasn’t good and we missed it.
We parked for the night at Millbrook Campground that advertised in Passport as half price but their regular rates in “Doers” the Nova Scotia guide book as $25. They charge $20 for Passport members. Oh, well. Their water supply had been worked on and hadn’t passes inspection so we were glad we had a full tank.
The main purpose for being here was to see the Tidal Bore. It comes in twice a day. In fact on this river, when the tide is completely out, it immediately starts coming back in. We drove to the observation stand, which was the end of an old railroad bridge. There is a relatively new road bridge next to it. There were some
teenagers having a good time playing in the mud. We had talked earlier about whether it would be a good slide or not.
With the color of the dirt here, we’re sure their clothes would have to be thrown away. In fact, how do they get home. Get in the car???
Olivia took pictures
before,
during
and after
the rise. Today there was not a head rise like we expected, but in
10 minutes the river reversed its flow direction and rose at least 10’. It was swift and the
river runners enjoyed the rapids.
At this time the tide was flowing OVER the outgoing river water. High tide can be reached in just over an hour from the arrival of the bore at Truro, the next town over it where it rises 40’. Amazing!
Friday, August 14 The drive of the last day was too much for Fred’s back so we took a day off, visited with the neighbors, and Olivia cleaned house.
Saturday, August 15 Fred was still hurting, but ready to go so we hooked up and headed for Truro, stopping at the
Glooscap Indian Heritage center.
Glooscap is assumed to still be alive but living in the west, ready to end the “oppressions and troubles” of the Mi’kmaq when he returns. Glooscap “looked and lived like other men,: he ate, drank, smoked, slept and danced with them. But he never died, never was sick, never grew old:, “he lived in a very large wigwam:, “the Basin of Minas” was his beaver pond, - for he had everything on large scale,” “he could do anything and everything,” “the elements were entirely under his control.” As for Glooscap’s own origin, one story from nearby Maine suggests he created himself though an act of will from material left over after the Creation. Since the late 1800’s many authors became entranced by the stories of the Mi’kmaq and with this increase in awareness Glooscap’s accomplishments grew. Yet he still embodies the fundamental attribute of wisdom and hope. One story is, “Glooscap found a village of Indians, friends of his, called Kwenmoo (Loons.) As in all cases these Indians were at one time people, yet at an another time real loons. They entertained their king and benefactor, who bestowed many favors and wholesome counsel upon them, and directed them to think of him and to call for him when they needed his aid. This the the origin of the shrill and peculiar cry, or howl of the loon, when they utter this cry, they are calling upon Glooscap.” When the Indians hear this dismal cry of the loon, resembling the howl of a dog, they say, “He is calling upon Glooscap.”
The Mi’kmaq Indians, like the American Indians, have lost their hunting grounds and have been at the mercy of the white man. In 1969 their peace treaties were honored and they are recovering their pride. Before the Europeans came they were masters of
quilling and afterwards they incorporated
glass beads into their intricate work.
Moving on into Truro we noticed tree carvings in yards. Later we found the city had made the most of an unfortunate situation—the loss of many of the towns stately elm trees to Dutch Elm Disease. The overall theme is the celebration of Truro’s heritage. We saw many but the
Canadian Mounty and the
wrestlers, the trademark symbol of Stanfield’s underwear products from as early as 1910, signified durability and masculinity caught our eye. Today more emphasis is on the brand name “Stanfield’s,” but in the early years the Wrestlers symbol was almost as well know. We visited this outlet store hoping to find some treasures. Not for us, but maybe for others.
Next stop was at the
information center in the
“Wild Blueberry Capital of Canada” - Oxford, NS. After treating ourselves to Blueberry Ice Cream we enjoyed seeing how the wild blueberries are grown and harvested.
As we left the visitor’s center Olivia saw a
Nova Scotia Santa in a
window. Too bad they didn’t have the small one. It certainly looked like International Santa's she collects, but didn’t have their label. He sure was cute.
Sunday, August 16 our last day in Nova Scotia and we celebrated by doing our washing in Amherst. We were spending two nights near the Nova Scotia information center close to Amherst. As we explored the town hunting for the Snow White Laundromat we discovered their murals painted on their old buildings. The signature mural was the first historical one completed in 1996 and depicts
Old Home Week of 1910. This was a golden time in Amherst’s history as they were one of the industrial leaders in Canada. Old Home Week celebrated these accomplishments with festivities including concerts, sports, games and a grand parade. The old Customs Building is in the background. The runner depicted is Fred Cameron who won the Boston Marathon in 1910 and joined the festivities.
The second was of their
sports heros.
Another mural recognized
the veteran's of Amherst.
And the fourth we saw was about the
Great Amherst Mystery. When we asked at the Laundromat the young man working there gave us a scrapbook of the mystery to read. It was quite fascinating. Summarized we take you back to 1878, Ester Cox was not an extraordinary human being. In fact, she was quite the opposite. A happy, healthy, eighteen year old girl living a peaceful life with her family. Her existence was shattered when an unexplainable phenomenon made her the target of cruelty.
Ester was haunted by spirits that subjected her to mental and physical torment. They engraved death threats into her bedroom wall, swelled her limbs in feverish fits, stuck her with pins, and chased her with kitchen knives. Unseen hands tossed furniture about, lit mysterious fires and knocked thunderously upon the roof. She often sought refuge with neighboring friends and family when the threats of the ghosts endangered her or her family. However, the spirits followed. In 1879 a neighbor's barn where she was working caught fire and was destroyed. Charged with arson she spent a month in jail. Family and townspeople attested to her innocence as they had witnessed the acts of the ghosts.
The spirits followed her to church, incessant knocking and flying hymn books interrupted the service. At work chairs stacked themselves and dishes leapt off the shelves. Townspeople flocked to the little house attempting to solve the mysterious occurrences.
All were documented in the local newspapers and the story spread far and wide. Currently the Great Amherst mystery remains unsolved. The classic tale of possession continues to challenge the towns belief in the supernatural. Ester Cox amazingly survived the ordeal and went on to become a wife and mother, finally living in the United States. Some people believe that an exorcism performed by a Mi’kmaq Indian Medicine Man successfully drove the mischievous spirits away.
Like Truro, Amherst’s trees too have suffered from Dutch Elm Disease and they have also made lemonade out of lemons by carving the trunks of the dead trees into historical figures of their town. We enjoyed seeing their
Scottish man in Nova Scotia plaid with bag pipes, their
Constitutional heroes, and a
Guest House welcome sign.
That evening we made our way to Maccan and watched the fresh water flowing out, then briefly held the tide back, then watched the reversal and narrowing of the River causing a wall of water or
Tidal Bore to rush up the river ahead of the incoming tide. Like the height of the tide, the height of the Tidal Bore is controlled by the gravitational pull of the Moon and is highest when the Moon is closest to the Earth, usually at or shortly after a full Moon. This day was over a week after the full Moon and the Bore was about a foot high and was at 7:37 pm as the sun was going down and the calm outgoing river reflected the sky.
Monday, August 17 we left beautiful Nova Scotia, after a short trip through New Brunswick we will be in Maine.
Monday, August 17 we left Nova Scotia after almost three weeks. Hooray for Nova Scotia—a wonderful Province! Fred’s favorite. Though we didn’t see any advertising about it, we asked at several information stops where you could be and be furtherest from salt water. Mostly we got puzzled looks. The consensus seems to be less than 40 miles. In other words, you can never be more than 40 miles, as the proverbial crow flies, from the ocean in Nova Scotia. The sea dominates here. Fishing dominates their lives. Mostly the land is covered with a variety of trees. There is a little farming in the valleys. Housing is modest, but well kept. People are very outgoing and fun to be around.
We drove through Moncton and on to Saint John, New Brunswick. after setting up in their city park RV park, we drove to the Reversing Falls. At low tide the river flows over rocks to form rapids and whirlpools. Little boats and rapid runners were having fun showing their patrons a good time. We shopped at the last Canadian Wal-Mart for our trip, then headed back to our Magic Carpet. This park is on gravel with a row of hookups down the middle. We are in the first spot—we get all the traffic, Every time a car passes it sounds like they are coming in the trailer.
We were nearing the end of our Canadian part of this trip with mixed emotions. We have enjoyed all the sights here in the Maritimes, but we will be glad to see our dollar bills, instead of loonies, and the lower gas prices.
We always love to hear from you so send your comments to
Olivia@bobheck.com or FredHarrington@yahoo.com
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