Monday, May 25, 2009

Letter 13 Boston

Harrington Travels East 2009
Letter 13:Boston
Notice of this letter is sent only a couple of days after Letter 12, so if you haven’t read it go back to May 23 date on the right of the screen.

Thursday, May 21 from country life at Myles Standish State Park overlooking a small lake and just past the cranberry bogs we moved into the city of Wakefield. Mass for a visit with a YWCA friend. Barbara had promised us a place to park and we took her up on it for the Memorial Day weekend, when most camping spots are reserved. She met us on a nice parking lot so


She met us on a nice parking lot so we could survey her property before parking the trailer. Sure enough it was really nice and level, but it did have a few dead limbs protruding over the driveway, so Fred became their tree trimming service. We were then successful in having a lovely place to stay for the weekend. I know our trailer looks close to their house and it was. We had just enough room. Not only is this a sightseeing, visiting old friend weekend, but was also a maintenance stop for us. Fred had his regular peridonic deep cleaning, Olivia had a hair cut and we received our mail.

Friday, May 22 after our maintenance stops Barbara drove us to a subway stop and we headed downtown to the Freedom Trail. It was already hot—over 90. It is marked in the streets and sidewalks with a red stripe. Barbara kept us on the stripe while we gawked at the sites. We passed the old State House, the oldest public building still standing in the eastern US. This was the capitol of the colony. The Declaration of Independence was read from the balcony below the clock, on July 18, 1776 from a copy just delivered from Philadelphia. A circle of paving stones in the pavement below the balcony marks the site of the “horrid massacre” of March 5, 1770, in the first bloodshed of the Revolution. Down the street was Faneuil Hall, “The Cradle of Liberty.”
Built in 1740, Peter Faneuil proposed, at his own proper cost and charge, to erect a market to encourage and accommodate the Country People who bring provisions into town. Our modern day farmers market. This proposal was controversial so he added a meeting hall on the second floor. It is still that way. Vendor currently sell souvenirs on the ground floor. In this building Americans first protested the Sugar Act, created a Committee of correspondence” and planned the “Tea Party.” In the plaza in front of the hall were also interesting vendors such as the living statue. We found the Union Oyster Bar, where the Kennedy’s ate and had a light lunch then took the subway (whose entrance was camouflaged in the back of the hall) back to the car and Barbara’s for a restful snack supper on their back patio. Saturday, May 23 there was a cool front during the night and it made our day much more pleasant. Again we took the subway downtown. This time starting off at the site of the “Boston Tea Party.” Walking back to the “Freedom Trail,” we visited the Park Street church on Brimstone Corner. This was the sponsoring church for the missionaries to Hawaii in 1819. Brimstone corner was not named for the fire and brimstone fervor of the sermons, rather, gunpowder was stored in the crypt during the War of 1812. Passersbys may have been less afraid of eternal hellfire than of the church blowing up! We passed the King’s Chapel which the King ordered built. The Puritans refused to sell any suitable land so the Governor seized a corner of the burying ground. We thought it unusual in this cemetery nearly all the stones were decorated with a scull with wings, called the “death’s head.” We asked a guide and she said this was a puritan decoration helping the dead ascend into heaven.
Around the corner by the site of the first school was a statue of Benjamin Franklin. Yes he lived in Philly, but he was from Boston.

Next was the Granary Burying Ground. More famous people rest in this two-acre graveyard than any other in America. Three signers of the Declaration of Independence, nine governors of Massachusetts, the victims of the Boston Massacre, Benjamin Franklin’s parents and Paul Revere all lie buried here. Even a Mother Goose is here. Many of these tombstones have rocks placed in their honor by visitors. We enjoyed seeing John Hancock, Paul Revere, Mary Goose and Samuel Adams (note the bottle of Samuel Adams beer).

The Old South Meeting House was next on the trail. This was the largest meeting building in town. When gatherings overflowed Faneuil Hall, they moved here. Angry meetings started after the Boston Massacre. Passage of the Tea Act aroused passions once again. Negotiations were fruitless. Adams said, resignedly, “Gentlemen, this meeting can do nothing more to save the country.” He was not accepting defeat; he was giving a signal. Nearly a hundred men, disguised as Mohawk Indians, suddenly appeared outside the meeting-house doors. Amidst war whoops, the cry “To the wharves!” rang out. “Boston Harbor a tea-pot tonight!”
Legend has it that a British ensign was planning to throw an egg at Warren at the first sign of treason. In the ensuing confusion, all of the town’s leading patriots—including Warren, Adams and Hancock—were to have been arrested. It was a wonderful plan, except for one thing. The ensign fell on his way to the meeting, breaking his leg (as well as the egg), and he never showed up.
During the siege of Boston, this “sanctuary of freedom” was desecrated by the British. It was used as a stable, riding school and bar. Pews and pulpit were chopped into firewood and the library was burned for kindling. In 1872 the building was sold to be torn town. At the last moment, Boston’ lovers of history—led by a group of women— raised the money to buy the shrine. It was one of the very first buildings in America to be preserved for its historical association. Ever since it has been open to the public and a haven for free speech.

We walked across Boston Common, America’s oldest public park. For many years it was a “training field for the militia and for the feeding of cattle. The cows were evicted in 1830 after neighboring Beacon Hill become the fashionable residential area. Also on the Common were the town gallows, where pirates, witches and heretics—including Quakers—all met their untimely ends. It is best know today for public celebrations and demonstrations. In 1765 the repeal of the Stamp Act, Rev Martin Luther King and again Mass from Pope John Paul II all brought great crowds. Any amateur orator is assured an audience on the Common, no matter how strange their views may seem. While we were there we saw the frog pond, which is only 4” deep for wading in the summer and frozen in the winter for skating. It is named for the frog statues. We enjoyed posing on them and the ducks.

Cheers is just across the street from the Commons and we decided to have something hot to drink. We ended up having chowder and a fish sandwich in the very crowded bar/restaurant. The TV show has certainly impacted their business. This location is the one used for the outside view, the one downtown was used for the inside filming
Continuing back across the Commons we saw the famous “Swan Boats” and in the background were real swans. There was also an upside down tree. Then we found the statue of Edward Everett Hale, American author and Unitarian minister, nephew of Edward Everett (1794-1865), orator and statesman, and grandnephew of Nathan Hale (1755-1776), American Revolutionary War spy martyr, wrote The life of Christopher Columbus: from his own letters and journals and other documents of his time (1891). He was interesting to us as Fred has great grandparents with the name of Hale.

The Gold Dome of the current State House of Massachusetts met us next and across the street was the Shaw/54th Regiment Memorial. When the Civil War broke out, many of Massachusetts’ black residents wanted to fight to free their enslaved brethren, but the US Army prohibited blacks from enlisting. When the war department relented and allowed blacks to serve, but not as officers. Robert Gould Shaw volunteered to lead them. It was a risky venture for both black soldier and white officer. The black men, if captured would become slaves, the whites were seen as traitors to their race by the rebels. Shaw and 32 of his men were slain leading the assault on Ft Wagner, outside of Charleston, SC.

Back at the farmer’s market we bought avocados, tomatoes , and potatoes. This was the first farmer’s market we had seen on this trip.

Barbara then drove us to Concord and the Minute Man National Historical Park. The visitor’s center mural and the movie was excellent. It told the story of Lexington and Concord in video and narrative setting. There was a map above the stage setting with little red and blue lights that followed the soldiers and the battles.We also read the quote of a cousin.

As we drove the battlefield road we were surprised to see “Orchard House,” home of Louisa May Alcott, author of Little Women.

Near the North Bridge was a family of colonial musicians entertaining the visitors. We walked across the famous bridge and felt the presence of the British and the Patriots.

On the far side was a statue of a minute man leaving his plow to join the cause for freedom. Rock fences were all along the road. At the parking lot for the bridge was the entrance to “The Old Manse” where Ralph Waldo Emerson, wrote and Nathaniel Hawthorne live and wrote in the 1840’s. Near by was Walden Pond and Thoreau’s cabin. We had not realized we would be in the presence of all these famous authors residences and inspirations.

Sunday, May 24 we attended the Old South United Methodist Church in Reading, MA. After church two of the members were talking about reading the book, “the Dark Tide.” It was a true story of the Great Molasses Flood of 1919 in Boston. Sure enough we found the web site telling about it. go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boston_Molasses_Disaster to satisfy your curiosity like we did.

One of Barbara’s favorite things to do is drive through the tunnel’s of the “Big Dig, ” so we accompanied her through town to the Kennedy Library on the south side of Boston. It was very well done and we enjoyed reliving those years. Outside was his sailing boat and we saw the skyline of Boston for the first time.

Back through the tunnels and north along the coast Barbara drove us to Marblehead and we thought of Judy and Dennis Cross as they lived here last year. We could see why they would love this area.
Boston is a city that works. It is collection of smaller neighborhoods connected by commuter rail and/or subway. It is clean, functional and beautiful. What a town!

Monday, May 25 we accompanied Barbara and Robert to a Greek café for a delicious breakfast then we headed off to western Massachusetts. Robert and Barbara were wonderful hosts for this patriotic weekend. Thanks to both of you.
For Comments and notes to us please email us at Olivia@bobheck.com or fredharrington@yahoo.com