Friday, July 24, 2009

Letter 22: New Brunswick

Harrington Travels East 2009
Letter 22 New Brunswick, PEI
Wednesday was maintenance day. Washing, cleaning, groceries and a good home cooked supper. Whew!

Thursday, July 23 we realized we had miles to go before Blaire returned so we were up and at-um. We avoided all the scenic roads and wishful stops traveling a semi freeway south. All along this road were high fences to keep out the moose along with signs

warning motorist of the hazard. We went straight to Hopewell Cape, home of the Hopewell rocks on the bay of Fundy. Actually it is up a river, but is the end of the funnel shaped bay where the tides rise and fall 50’ twice a day. We settled for another RV park near by and went to the Hopewell Rocks state park. We viewed the rocks from above then walked down on the ocean floor while the tide was out and wandered around the huge rocks called flower pots. Blaire even walked over rocks covered with seaweed. Two of the rocks were called Lover’s Arch due to the way they seem to embracing each other. The next day we went back at high tide and saw the rocks from above at high tide.
Fred and Blaire had been craving fish and chips, but we hadn’t seen any roadside signs advertising them. Now we see the signs and we decided this night was the time. After asking around, we went to a place nearby and after Fred scouted it out, decided this was the place. We each had three huge pieces of haddock coated with a very thick, hush puppy like crust. They called this English style fried fish. The fish was delicious, but we peeled off at least half the crust. The tartar sauce, slaw and rolls were also very good. We decided we could have easily ordered two dinners and shared and still had leftovers. As we came out children were swimming and playing on two rafts, in a pond adjacent to the restaurant. The temperature was about 70 degrees.

Friday, July 24 we dawdled around and missed the tidal bore in Moncton. For anyone coming to this area, be sure and check that schedule as well as the tidal schedule. We did drive to Fundy National park to our west. On the way we stopped at one of New Brunswick’s many covered bridge and saw goats in an unusual pen. In the park was another one at Wolfe point. From the inside we could see where the river ran into the bay as the bay rose with the tide.

We walked down 130 steps to the beach seeing pretty moss under the trees. At the water’s edge Olivia timed the tide. This rock was about six inches tall and the tide took 5 minutes to go from this to this.
Then we had to climb those steps back to the car.

This was another rainy day so after stopping at a couple of lobster shops to inspect the offerings, we headed back to the trailer for r & r. It’s not possible to know the size of the live lobsters in this picture. Most were in the range of 2-4 pounds, however one was 10.7 pounds.
It was huge! How do you crack the pinchers on one that large? At $8/pound (cooked), it would cost less than $90 for this giant. For a 1.5 pound whole lobster dinner, prices are $17 and up.

While Fred napped Olivia told Blaire of pranks pulled in college and Y-Teen activities Blaire could use at band camp. Blaire told Mom’s of pranks when she was a Freshman. Times like this and when Fred tells about growing up have been real quality time with Blaire. We hope she has enjoyed them as much as we have.

To this point we haven’t eaten any lobster. Olivia and Blaire haven’t experienced lobster and aren’t very excited to try them, especially with all that is required to release the meat. Fred knows you lobster lovers have a hard time understanding this. The three of us will share a lobster soon. Maybe we will first try some already prepared lobster dish. Then they will be hooked!

Saturday, July 25 was a long travel day, not necessarily in miles. We stopped in Moncton to visit a Baie Store. This is Canada’s big department store and Olivia was looking for a winter coat, hoping they would have summer coats on sale. The coats were mostly raincoats, but we browsed the store where Blaire found a pair of sandals and Fred a new straw hat.

While outside the Baie Store, Fred saw a traveler he recognized from our campground the last night and initiated a conversation with him. He is German and in Canada on a college exchange program. It was the end of his third year and before returning to Germany, he was walking around Canada and parts of the USA. He is a physics major and plans to get a PhD before entering some research field. We talked of quantum physics and agreed it was, at times, baffling. All he needed to camp was on his person—he was loaded. It was a nice experience to visit with this articulate young man. He had found a ride in our campground and was in town about the same time we were.

Off to PEI, we followed the red star fish signs, their scenic route to the Northhampton Bridge to Prince Edward Island, PEI. The last 30 miles of this route was about the worse road we have traveled. There was no place to turn around to take a longer, but smother route. Blaire said we will just have to call this our little adventure. Finally we found our way to this 7.7 mile bridge.

The Bridge was completed in 1997. Even though the bay turns to flowing ice in the winter, it is open all year around. It was quite an engineering challenge. The support pillars were built on land and looked like upside down funnels. As the water freezes and expands it has room to slide up the slope of the supports. The ice then breaks up harmlessly when it falls down the fluted support. There is also a ferry at the south end of the island which we planned to take. Both tolls are paid only on departure or as they like to say, “only if you decide to leave!”

The PEI end of the bridge was full of a huge information center and many tourist traps. We spent a lot of time in all where Blaire enjoyed pretending to be Anne and even dressed Fred up as Anne. We bought a DVD (original version) of “Anne of Green Gables” before heading inland to the city of
Harrington and a Passport America RV park. After supper and phone calls to home we settled in to watch the movie on the laptop. Blaire had never seen it. We were up until 11:30 and we all thoroughly enjoyed the antics of Anne, with an “e”. Fred enjoyed the cast so much he had tears in his eyes. We were all ready to go to see her place. Watching Anne of Green Gables is the absolute best way to start a tour of P.E.I. What a wonderful movie—a real timeless classic.

Anne of Green Gables was published in 1908 and almost immediately a wave of tourist flocked to PEI. It continues to this day, only in greater numbers.

Sunday, July 26, we drove over to Cavendish which was where the author Lucy Maud Montgomery grew up and was inspired to write “Anne of Green Gables.” We visited the National Historical Site of the real farm for the fictional Green Gables story. We saw the barn, house, Haunted woods, buggy and Lover’s Lane. They had flowers growing everywhere.

Next was a trip to Cavendish Beach in the National Park. We learned the red soil bluffs and fields are from the iron oxide in the soil, which rusts as it is exposed to air. Then on the beach the salt water turns it to white sand.

We followed a sign to u-pick raspberries, but only picked a pint as they were not the best. We were told there was too much rain this summer. We agreed! We did pick up 5 lb of PEI potatoes to have using their local recipe for supper.

Our desire to have lobster took us back to the sea and a fish market to buy a 2 lb lobster to share. We took it back to the trailer and picked it apart, enjoying the meat. We decided it wasn’t worth the work, but did enjoy eating it.

Monday, July 27 we were up early to make the long trek to Nova Scotia. We drove through Charlottetown along Hwy 1 to the Wood Islands Ferry. As we stated earlier the cost of the bridge and ferry is paid when leaving the island. Olivia nearly choked when she read the price, $106. However we did enjoy the island. We could have stayed here longer, but we concluded it was best to move on. PEI is a garden spot. Its rolling hills were filled with forests, lush green pastures, crops and vivid flowers were in abundance at most every house.

Fred and Blaire passed the time on the ferry with a hot game of


gin rummy. Departing the ferry we headed east to Cape Breton Island and Whycocomagh Provincial Park.

All of a sudden this laptop has started not printing the letter between u and w. Anyone have any ideas how to remedy it? Spell check has added all but in the email address.

Next Letter will be Nova Scotia.

We love hearing from you so contact us at
Olivia@bobheck.com or fredharrington@yahoo.com